Since you had a Bolt previously, you probably already know these things, but I'll list them anyway for newbies who may be reading this post. Range decreases as speed increases, so drive slower to increase range. (same for an ICE car) Higher tire pressure is better than lower pressure. I think the ma...

80 miles is no problem. If you find yourself low on range, just slow down. Speed really eats range.

3.2 miles/kWh is pretty good in winter, especially with the heat on. You're fine. If you can plug in to charge at home (220V), it will help your range to precondition before you leave. This will turn on the battery heater and make your drive more efficient. It also means you'll leave with a warm car...

Todays round trip to work was 45.3 miles and 14.1 kwh used which includes creature comforts. One of the graphs shows almost 4 miles per kw the efficiency score i am seeing is -8 biggest hits are on climate settings and outside temp. Honestly as much as i want to be efficient i like being comfy its ...

The GOM is just that...a guess-o-meter. Range is estimated (estimated!) based on how the car was previously driven. Your real range depends on battery temp, driving speed, tire pressure, etc. Typically it's lower in winter and higher in summer. What is your average mile/kWh rating over , say, 100 mi...

Thanks Paul

Norton wrote:Why not run a 40A circuit if you're doing it from scratch?

Or better yet add a 50A (or even 60) for future proofing when your next EV will charge at 12kW.

I think there's a setting for that. You probably have it turned to "on". It's there because some are worried about others unplugging their car, and possibly stealing their charger. Most people I know set it to "off"

I follow the forums closely, and I haven't heard of any.

ErnieR wrote:Thanks, Tom, a five minute average is just fine for my purpose. By the way, mi /kWh x 33.705 = mpge

Thanks. I learned something new today.