Fob quit working.

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Airbesar

Active member
Joined
Jun 1, 2016
Messages
32
After 2 months, my every day fob stopped working for a while today. Interestingly, it happened while at the dealer to finally get the front license plate holder attached.

The dealer tested the fob to confirm it was putting out a signal but the fob had no affect on the car locks, starting the car, etc. etc.

Turns out that a work around is to put the fob at the bottom of the center console storage bin, between the two front seats. The car then started up.

The front window was open so we could get the door open to do this. I guess you can pry off the aft part of the door handle cover to expose a slot into which you can put the key out of the fob, to get in if the window isn't open.

I drove home to try the backup fob to see if the problem was in the first fob or the car. When I got out of the car, the every day fob was working again. While that's great it makes me a little insecure. I asked the dealer for more info.

Googling this issue, other blogs have postings about a similar problem cropping up in Volts and Sparks. Like mine, the issue seems to just go away, sometimes overnight.
 
This has happened three times to me. Fortunately my door was unlocked so could get in (after turning off the alarm which was triggered when I opened the door) and could reset the fob in the fashion you described. I spoke with my dealer and he never heard of this. He suggested reaching out to onstar and have them do a vehicle scan.
 
Other signal interference will cause this. Remember, your FOB is a signal transmitter and the car receives that signal
Other transmissions nearby can block the FOB's signal with the car. It's a common issue with this kind technology.
 
For mine it looked like it lost the sync to the car, I could use it to turn off the horn and the like but it was not recognized as the fob for the car. This the need to put it in the holder in the car to have it recognized as the right fob. Odd.
 
#16-NA-396: Intermittent Operation of Key Fobs, Door Unlock Inoperative “No Remote Detected” Message with Possible TPM MIL - (Jan 19, 2017)

Cause: This may be due to issues internal to the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver.
 
BoltEV17 said:
#16-NA-396: Intermittent Operation of Key Fobs, Door Unlock Inoperative “No Remote Detected” Message with Possible TPM MIL - (Jan 19, 2017)

Cause: This may be due to issues internal to the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver.


Thanks! Didn't know about this one ;)
 

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Thanks. I never heard more from my dealer. But the problem hasn't occurred more than that one time, so I've put it on ignore.
 
Yesterday this happened to me. I've only have the car for a week and so far have been happy with it.

However, I've had some issues with Android Auto freezing up the screen and most recently I wasn't able to:

* lock/unlock doors with key FOB
* start car with key FOB in my pocket, in my seat, in the center console, underneath the head unit, in the storage compartment between the arm rests

The message displayed on my instrument cluster stated "remote key not detected" or something to that effect.

I tried to call OnStart but it was past their hours of operation.

Finally, I manually unlocked/locked the front driver seat door on the lock/unlock button physically on the door with the driver side door wide open. I closed the driver side door and attempted to start the car again and this time it worked.

I'm not sure if that was what did the trick if the car eventually reset itself after a good 15 minutes.

Either way, I'm a bit worried that this has happened with others. This is definitely a bug and if it happens at the most in an unsafe situation this is a major liability. I'll be calling Chevy to see if there are any official remedies to this, but just because it only happened once so far...doesn't mean it won't happen again.
 
Yesterday my car's alarm started blaring loudly until I was able to reset it. Got all sorts of strange looks.

And yes - still loving the car. Biggest concern here is that one day I may be locked out. I need to find the physical key location just in case (for opening the car and starting it).
 
Physical key lock location (not the key in the fob) is the driver-side door. You use the key to pry open the cover on the right-side of the handle. The hole is beneath the cover. It appears difficult to ruin anything if you try it ahead of needing it.
 
This happened to me today. Was leaving work. I pressed the button on the door handle and the car door opened but the horn started chirping. I then pressed the start button on the dash and I got the "No Remote Detected" message in the DIC. Wasn't really sure where the remote sync pocket was (I do now) but after a few minutes it was detected and I drove off.

Back to the dealer.

- kof
 
I took my Bolt in today to resolve the fob not found issue and the camera icon staying inactive (gray) while going slow. I took printed copies of the TSB but the service tech did not want them. I'm fine with that as long as they solve the issues correct. Just picked my car up and the new module was installed as well as the software upgraded to 14.1. Giving A+ to the guys at Community Chevrolet.
 
drdiesel1 said:
Other signal interference will cause this. Remember, your FOB is a signal transmitter and the car receives that signal
Other transmissions nearby can block the FOB's signal with the car. It's a common issue with this kind technology.

DD1 I think you are right on the money. I was showing off my Chevy Bolt to my nephew who had a very new high end employee badge (with NFC chip) when my fob became confused. Yes, alarms, inability to lock/unlock, cannot start car. Putting the fob at the bottom of the center console fixed it right up. Has not happened since.

Note to Chevy: That image that displays on the dash for a fleeting 3 seconds is nearly impossible to decipher. Referring to the base of the central console as "the pocket" only adds to the confusion. At a time of panic, a bit more instruction would be really helpful.
 
Just FYI. My service rep said the new version of the module they replaced had a better antenna design.
 
I had this issue, and luckily tried random things until I got back up and running. However, this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILFYhMcnynE

shows how to use the physical key to get in your Bolt if the key fob fails, and how to start your Bolt if it reports that your key fob isn't present (but it actually is). Since these may be the result of a dead key fob battery, it also shows how to replace the battery.

These tips are the "keys" (pretty funny, eh?) I needed to get past this issue the one time it happened to me.
 
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