dickhillpdx wrote:I have been leasing a 2018 Chevy Bolt EV since February 2018. At first, it got 238 miles (or more) on a full charge. Since September 2018, the full charge capacity has gone down, from 210 to 190 to 170 to 150 and, most recently (December 30, 2018), 130 miles. NOTE: This is the full charge capacity and does not take into account weather, use of accessories, etc. In addition, the weather now (December) is about the same (or warmer than it was) last February when I first got the car. The car has 5750 miles on it.
As it went down, I talked to the Chevy dealership. They said that the car had re-programmed itself in light of my driving habits. (I drive mostly in the city of Portland, Oregon, but every few months, I drive to Tacoma, Washington, about 150 miles). With the full charge capacity of 130 miles, I can no longer drive to Tacoma without stopping, even if I drive no faster than 55 MPH and use no heat, radio, etc.
I have a few questions of the forum:
1. Has anybody else had this problem?
2. If so, what did you do?
3. Is there a way to fix the problem (and get back (or nearly back to) the full charge capacity I had last February?
There have been other electric cars with capacity loss like this.
There are several possible issues. Getting the dealer to troubleshoot this correctly might be the biggest issue.
What you can do to diagnose the problem:
Run the car as close to empty as is reasonable. Plug into a charging station that records the energy delivered. Some public charge stations do this, as you are billed by the kWh. Other public charging stations will report it as well. Take the number of kWh the car takes for the charge, and multiply it by 0.9 and you have about how much energy the battery received. Multiply by the inverse of fraction of the battery that was charged. If you discharged to 10%, then the total capacity of the battery would be Delivered_kWh*0.9/0.9, which is about delivered_kWh.
With a fairly accurate estimate of the battery capacity, now go talk to the dealer again. The range estimate or GOM (Guess-O-Meter) isn't good evidence, as it depends very much on how you drive. A recharge test is good evidence. Sure, the charging loss isn't exactly 10%, probably a few percent more or less. The battery isn't at 25C, probably colder, so the capacity would be a few percent higher if measured at 25C. But you are likely not more than 10% off, if done carefully. While the If the loss is enough to trigger the capacity loss warranty, or less than about 36 kWh, then the dealer should do a warranty replacement or repair. Based on you not able to drive 150 miles, I suspect that this is the case.
Drive Motor Battery Coverage
Propulsion Battery Warranty
Policy (Bolt EV)
Like all batteries, the amount of energy that the high voltage “propulsion” battery can store will decrease with time and miles driven. Depending on use, the battery may degrade as little as 10% to as much as 40% of capacity over the warranty period. If there are questions pertaining to battery capacity, a dealer service technician could determine if the vehicle is within parameters.
if the capacity isn't below 36 kWh, it sounds like it will be there soon. The dealer could do still do a "cell balance voltage" test, especially at a charge level below 20%, and might spot a very weak cell.
I suspect you have a single very weak cell. The dealer should replace that cell, or the whole pack. Other possible issues include a Battery Management System (BMS) fault.
#49 on the LEAF 100 mile club.
Most everything around here is wet during the rainy season. And the rainy season is long.
2012 Leaf SL Red
2014 Leaf SL Red
Can't sit in a Bolt seat, hoping for better soon.
Or perhaps a Buick version? Buick Electra 225???