scknogas
Active member
Yeah, I specifically asked about that, but they say that they "tested" it and it came back 100% healthy. :roll:SeanNelson said:
So, Not sure what to do but, wait for next failure.
My bolt is completely dead
- Thread starter scottmcll
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So, Not sure what to do but, wait for next failure.
SparkE
Well-known member
In my area, there are several places that will do a free "load test" on a battery. One of them is a parts store (AutoZone) and another is AAA - roadside service (but that's when you have a battery problem *right now*).
Do you have a voltmeter available? If so, you might want to check the batt voltage every morning before you leave (or turn on the car), and track it (the history). Just remember that these rolling computers get activated/woken up by weird things sometimes (like simply opening the driver's door), causing an increased load on the acc battery. So... pop the hood *when you get home*, so that you don't have to open the door in the morning.
To keep a log of you bat voltage :
- you want to test voltage with battery *at rest*, and at rest for at least 20 minutes (longer is better)
- pop hood the night before
- check bat voltage before doing anything to car (so no load on batt)
- check batt voltage even if you don't drive it that day (to see what a day or two or three of not driving does to voltage)
- for curiosity sake, write down the mileage every morning before leaving
(The last bit is because the LEAF would keep a 12V better charged if it was driven longer periods - the 13V charge sent to the acc battery was on longer, basically, maintaining a higher voltage in the battery).
12.65V is absolutely, really fully charged (just charged, no use or drain, sitting) although 12.6V is basically fully charged. If your batt is often at or below 12.45V, your car isn't keeping it properly charged (or it is defective/on its way out - or it has been sitting for a long while).
Lastly, just because the batt voltage is fairly high doesn't mean the battery is OK and can provide current for a long time. It really should be load-tested. Get one done for free if you can, and try and get a paper from the place that did it so that you can show the dealer.
Good luck.
Do you have a voltmeter available? If so, you might want to check the batt voltage every morning before you leave (or turn on the car), and track it (the history). Just remember that these rolling computers get activated/woken up by weird things sometimes (like simply opening the driver's door), causing an increased load on the acc battery. So... pop the hood *when you get home*, so that you don't have to open the door in the morning.
To keep a log of you bat voltage :
- you want to test voltage with battery *at rest*, and at rest for at least 20 minutes (longer is better)
- pop hood the night before
- check bat voltage before doing anything to car (so no load on batt)
- check batt voltage even if you don't drive it that day (to see what a day or two or three of not driving does to voltage)
- for curiosity sake, write down the mileage every morning before leaving
(The last bit is because the LEAF would keep a 12V better charged if it was driven longer periods - the 13V charge sent to the acc battery was on longer, basically, maintaining a higher voltage in the battery).
12.65V is absolutely, really fully charged (just charged, no use or drain, sitting) although 12.6V is basically fully charged. If your batt is often at or below 12.45V, your car isn't keeping it properly charged (or it is defective/on its way out - or it has been sitting for a long while).
Lastly, just because the batt voltage is fairly high doesn't mean the battery is OK and can provide current for a long time. It really should be load-tested. Get one done for free if you can, and try and get a paper from the place that did it so that you can show the dealer.
Good luck.
SeanNelson
Well-known member
The 12V battery in the Bolt never has to supply the kind of high current that a "load test" is designed to check, so I'm not 100% sure how useful the results are. For the Bolt it's really the length of time that it can sustain a low load that's the acid test.SparkE said:
I ended up with a disabled car 2-3 weeks ago as well because somehow the 12v battery lost charge. Anyone else think it is lame for a car with a big battery with 150 miles of charge left to end up with a dead 12v battery 4-5 hours after you parked it? I didn't leave any accessories on and the dealer couldn't determine what could have drained the 12v battery. Even if I left some accessory on, it is not clear to me why the car can't check it's charge every few hours for a day after you park it and replenish it as needed, and send you an alert saying the 12v battery is being drained.
SparkE
Well-known member
If the car was left in "transport mode" (I can't remember exactly what it is called - the mode they put the car in to ship it from the factory), the electric behavior is different - including how the 12V is handled.
Also, if a car sat for a while on the lot, it may have pooched the 12V (depending on how low the charge got).
It is ALWAYS a very good idea to fully charge the 12V battery (using an external 12V car battery charger) when you receive a new car to make sure that it is 100% topped up on/after delivery.
Also, if a car sat for a while on the lot, it may have pooched the 12V (depending on how low the charge got).
It is ALWAYS a very good idea to fully charge the 12V battery (using an external 12V car battery charger) when you receive a new car to make sure that it is 100% topped up on/after delivery.
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