Problems, Bugs, Weird Stuff, Glitches, Concerns Here

[sgt1372]

An annoying rattle that's coming from the passenger seat assembly.

Thought it was coming from the center console -- the insert will rattle if you do not seat it tightly into the compartment - but figured out that it's coming from the passenger seat. Doesn't rattle when someone is sitting in the seat but I almost always drive solo, so it's more annoying than not.

Update 3/7/17:

So, I discovered why the passenger seat is rattling. One of the T50 torx bolts mounting the seat to the floor was missing!

Went to Fastenal this morning but they didn't have one. So, drove over to the closest Chevy dealer and ordered one for $3.70. Will take 3-5 days to arrive. It didn't want to waste the time going over to service to get one for "free" thru the service advisor. It didn't cost much and it's easier for me to just install the bolt myself.

Hopefully, this will be the full extent of the "defects" that I find in the car.

 

[stevewa]

Just passed one month on Monday.

This morning after stopping for a soda at the local 7-11 I got the "service soon" indicator (just the lamp, no message in the info center or anything else). I hit OnStar button and asked if they could see anything more. I was told it was an issue with the "High Voltage Charging system" (which must mean DCFC since L2 charging is working fine). Told to take it to service at my earliest convenience (Service can't see me until next week, good thing it's still charging!).

Service writer at Wilsonville thought it might be low coolant level, but all three expansion bottles are full, so unless it's air in the system that seems unlikely. I think it might be an issue with the microswitch at the top of the J1772 connector. Usually when I press the release button on the EVSE cable the green light on the dash goes out, but it's not doing that now. I can see why that would be a critical safety issue for DCFC connections, as you don't want to interrupt a 100A+ circuit by pulling the plug...

I have an appointment for Wednesday (actually going to Carr in Beaverton as it's closer to work) so we'll see what happens then.

P.S. after OnStar ran the diagnostic, I again lost my settings for passive door lock and for auto rear-wipe...

 

[SeanNelson]

Usually when I press the release button on the EVSE cable the green light on the dash goes out, but it's not doing that now. I can see why that would be a critical safety issue for DCFC connections, as you don't want to interrupt a 100A+ circuit by pulling the plug...

I believe the connector is designed so that the prong for the pilot signal is shorter than the others - that's so that when you pull out the plug the pilot signal disconnects first and that causes the charger to shut off before the other connections are broken. That prevents any arcing when you pull the plug out unexpectedly.

 

[user 744]

The latch on the plug is absolutely active; on my CMax Energi, if you just depress the button while charging, you hear a relay drop and the charge ring light goes out.

 

[stevewa]

Usually when I press the release button on the EVSE cable the green light on the dash goes out, but it's not doing that now. I can see why that would be a critical safety issue for DCFC connections, as you don't want to interrupt a 100A+ circuit by pulling the plug...

I believe the connector is designed so that the prong for the pilot signal is shorter than the others - that's so that when you pull out the plug the pilot signal disconnects first and that causes the charger to shut off before the other connections are broken. That prevents any arcing when you pull the plug out unexpectedly.

Yes, and that's adequate for 220v AC on the "main" J1772 connector (Nissan doesn't put a switch on the top of their J1772, for example, and CHAdeMO connectors lock from the cable side). I doubt it could react fast enough if a determined user was pulling out the CCS plug with the large DC contacts.

As an update, after fiddling with the switch with my finger (and after a few power cycles during the day) the "service soon" light has gone out.

 

[Pigwich]

Center LCD console completely crashed. Nothing. No touch, no reaction,. No graphics updates, none of the car's regular climate control, energy settings, nothing. The graphics we're slightly corrupted, and it stayed on even after I disconnected the phone, shut the car OFF and exited the vehicle. I was using Android auto, phone was fine. I came back to the car a few minutes later and it had gone dark, so that's something I guess? Got back in the car an hour later and it was normal.

 

[Anonymous]

I have a Premier, fully loaded, bought on 12/30/16. About 900 miles on the car at this point.

I had a small glitch appear last week. All the lights on the steering wheel went out, and all the buttons on the steering wheel became unresponsive. Nothing else seemed to be affected. Turning the car off/on didn't change anything. But, the next day when I turned it on the problem was resolved.

 

[Anonymous]

I continue to have Bluetooth connectivity problems. We have two phones... a Nexus 6P and a Nexus 5X (both through Google Fi). Connections to the Bolt through Bluetooth with either phone have been erratic over the 5 weeks we've had the Bolt. The phones do connect when when used through USB. Earlier - on this site - someone suggested that I turn off the OnStar WiFI hotspot... because of possible interference between locally strong Bluetooth and WiFi signals. I did that... and for a short time the phones did connect through Bluetooth... but after a day or two the Bluetooth connection issues returned.

I am taking the Bolt into Rydell on Friday to have that and other issues seen to. Advice ahead of that would be useful.

Thank you, Bob in Northridge

I have a Nexus 6p as well and have had glitchy bluetooth connections. I removed my phone as a bluetooth device and soley rely on plugging in through usb and using Android Auto. Did the dealer have anything to say about the connectivity?

 

[gpsman]

CenterView attachment 1 LCD console completely crashed. Nothing. No touch, no reaction,. No graphics updates, none of the car's regular climate control, energy settings, nothing. The graphics we're slightly corrupted, and it stayed on even after I disconnected the phone, shut the car OFF and exited the vehicle. I was using Android auto, phone was fine. I came back to the car a few minutes later and it had gone dark, so that's something I guess? Got back in the car an hour later and it was normal.

Pretty much this EXACT SAME THING happened to me yesterday. Except I was not using Android auto. I had no phone connected.

 

[Fulmine]

Defroster light on always. Even when 85 degrees outside. Only way to get it off is to turn off all AC/heat. Can't feel heat coming from vent on left side near passenger window.

Other problem; yesterday, I tried to make a call using center screen to an existing contact while driving. Wouldn't make call. I stopped and put car in park. Same. Then screen froze and I couldn't get back to the home screen via the home button. Turned car off and back on, and screen was unfrozen. Earlier, I received a call via Bluetooth.

 

[BoltEV17]

Defroster light on always. Even when 85 degrees outside. Only way to get it off is to turn off all AC/heat. Can't feel heat coming from vent on left side near passenger window.

Settings > Vehicle > Climate and Air Quality > Auto Defog > Off

 

[ChevyCustomerCare]

An annoying rattle that's coming from the passenger seat assembly.

Thought it was coming from the center console -- the insert will rattle if you do not seat it tightly into the compartment - but figured out that it's coming from the passenger seat. Doesn't rattle when someone is sitting in the seat but I almost always drive solo, so it's more annoying than not.

Update 3/7/17:

So, I discovered why the passenger seat is rattling. One of the T50 torx bolts mounting the seat to the floor was missing!

Went to Fastenal this morning but they didn't have one. So, drove over to the closest Chevy dealer and ordered one for $3.70. Will take 3-5 days to arrive. It didn't want to waste the time going over to service to get one for "free" thru the service advisor. It didn't cost much and it's easier for me to just install the bolt myself.

Hopefully, this will be the full extent of the "defects" that I find in the car.

Hi sgt1372,

When you get a moment, please send me a private message with your VIN. We'd like to take a closer look at this situation on our end.

To review GM's privacy policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html.

Best,

Amber G.
Chevrolet Customer Care

 

[sgt1372]

An annoying rattle that's coming from the passenger seat assembly.

Thought it was coming from the center console -- the insert will rattle if you do not seat it tightly into the compartment - but figured out that it's coming from the passenger seat. Doesn't rattle when someone is sitting in the seat but I almost always drive solo, so it's more annoying than not.

Update 3/7/17:

So, I discovered why the passenger seat is rattling. One of the T50 torx bolts mounting the seat to the floor was missing!

Went to Fastenal this morning but they didn't have one. So, drove over to the closest Chevy dealer and ordered one for $3.70. Will take 3-5 days to arrive. It didn't want to waste the time going over to service to get one for "free" thru the service advisor. It didn't cost much and it's easier for me to just install the bolt myself.

Hopefully, this will be the full extent of the "defects" that I find in the car.

Hi sgt1372,

When you get a moment, please send me a private message with your VIN. We'd like to take a closer look at this situation on our end.

To review GM's privacy policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html.

Best,

Amber G.
Chevrolet Customer Care

Further update on the rattle.

Turns out the rattle was coming from a loose internal bolt in the floor into which the missing seat rail bolt (Part #11547008) should have been bolted. Since the bolt was missing, the nut was free to rattle around under the floor.

As an experiment, I removed one of the other seat rail bolts and attempted to bolt it into the loose nut. My fear (which has happened on other occasions) was that I would not be able to tighten the bolt into the nut because it was loose and no longer firmly attached to the frame/floor by means of a weld (which is normally the case).

Fortunately, the nut somehow acquired purchase and I was able to tighten the other seat rail bolt into it. Have no idea how this happened but am glad it did because there would have been no way to secure the nut in order to tighten the bolt otherwise. BTW, the nut for the bolt that I removed to do this was NOT loose, nor were the others.

I just installed the additional bolt that I ordered in the remaining hole. The seat is now securely attached and the rattle is gone. FYI, the bolt that was missing and the loose nut were located at the rear of the outside seat rail (closest to the door and to the back) of the passenger seat

Problem solved.

Amber: I will send you the VIN by PM w/a copy of this message.

 

[sgt1372]

The following is NOT a problem, bug, weird thing, glitch or concern. It's a rant.

Already discovered a couple of nicks in the paint on the hood of my Bolt and figured I'd buy some touch up paint to deal w/it. When I went to pick up the missing passenger seat rail bolt at my local Chevy dealer, the parts guy told me that the tube of touch up paint would cost $24.51 (including sales tax).

Say WHAT? It's a Chevy Bolt not a BMW, MB or Porsche!!!

Needless to say, I said I didn't want to buy/order it but he was kind enough to give me the part number and I found the touch up paint on eBay for $15.95 (shipped w/no sales tax). Still expensive for what you get but it's about $10 or 35% less. So, that's where I'm going to buy it.

 

[Fulmine]

Thanks for the information on the defroster light: I went to the settings and saw it was on "automatic defroster", so I left it alone. I checked the index of the manual under defog and heat and there was nothing. I have griped about the manual elsewhere. I am learning about my Bolt on this forum, thanks to others.

 

[drdiesel1]

Lets keep a "glitches" thread going here all in one place.

Bad stuff I've had happen:

-Heat comes on when all indications are it is off

-Touch screen goes completely black

-Radio stuck at A.M. 540 - the lowest Frequency - a frequency I have never used - and I mean STUCK - just static - no way to change volume (stuck at 20 which is kind of loud) - no way to mute - no way to change source - no way to shut it off - neither software or hardware buttons would change anything. Other aspects of touch screen worked so it was not a complete software freeze- just the audio software froze up. (I couldn't take the water-boarding like torture of constant loud static for long and was forced to stop the vehicle on a dark road with no shoulder and power down and "reboot" the whole car.)

Loud grinding sound when going into Park.

Why do I feel like a Beta tester?
GM are you reading these pages?

You are activating the Park button before you are completely stopped :roll:
The noise is the parking pawl grinding inside the transmission.

Here's a TSB for the radio resets/display going blank as well as some other issue's.
Tell you dealer about this and they can update the system.

Anyone with a production date prior to Feb 6th 2017 should have this done.

 

[SeanNelson]

Here's a TSB for the radio resets/display going blank as well as some other issue's. Tell you dealer about this and they can update the system.

This sounds like a great candidate for an over-the-air update.

 

[drdiesel1]

Here's a TSB for the radio resets/display going blank as well as some other issue's. Tell you dealer about this and they can update the system.

This sounds like a great candidate for an over-the-air update.

It's not! This update will need to be done AT THE DEALER

 

[Fulmine]

I have reported to surveys that my center console malfunctioned after I had the car one week; I couldn't open it via the lever underneath the leading edge of the console. I was waiting until my 7500 mile service to have it fixed. I came to accidentally discover four months later that the lever won't work if the console is slid forward. If it is fully back, it will work. Nothing in the manual about this.

 

[SeanNelson]

I have reported to surveys that my center console malfunctioned after I had the car one week; I couldn't open it via the lever underneath the leading edge of the console. I was waiting until my 7500 mile service to have it fixed. I came to accidentally discover four months later that the lever won't work if the console is slid forward. If it is fully back, it will work. Nothing in the manual about this.

This is actually pretty common - my Prius C works the same way. It's because the hinge at the rear of the console doesn't have the clearance to open when it's slid forward.