Winter Tires & Wheels

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Many cars will not let you disable the traction control without the sensors. This can cause problems when you are stuck in really slippery conditions. Sometimes the only way to get any forward momentum is to spin the wheels.

Of course, this may not be a problem with the Bolt; its traction control is terrible. It lets my tires spin freely even on dry, warm pavement.
 
SeanNelson said:
Interesting - I've never even thought about getting an impact wrench, but now you have me intrigued...

I'll never get those hours back waiting in line at Costco before the tire center opened at 7AM after the first snowfall - which in Edmonton seems to be a rite of passage into winter. Such a waste of time. So was making do with the OEM tire changing tools that came with our cars (and not all that safe either). I'd recommend getting a torque wrench too so you can torque the lug nuts to spec.

I'm actually getting Costco to mount the Pirelli winter tires and OEM Mercedes wheels I bought on costco.ca on Thursday (they booked an appointment). After that however, I won't be back unless I need to make a road hazard warranty claim on one of the tires.

I'm not going to bother with TPMS either. Mercedes wanted something like $120 each, and I didn't find any cheap compatible sensors that I wanted to take a chance on. No biggie, I can live with a dash light for a few months to save 500 bucks.
 
oilerlord said:
SeanNelson said:
Interesting - I've never even thought about getting an impact wrench, but now you have me intrigued...
I'll never get those hours back waiting in line at Costco before the tire center opened at 7AM after the first snowfall...
I mount my own snow tires anyway, but I use a manual wrench to do it. An impact wrench seems like it would be pretty convenient...

When removing tires I'm in the habit of "cracking" the nuts open a wee bit before I raise the car to avoid having to apply so much force that it threatens to knock the car off the stands. Is this something you can do with an impact wrench without loosening the nuts so far that the wheels might tilt with the car's weight on them?
 
The battery impact wrench is very similar to a battery drill. Just a little bigger/stronger.

You’d use it with the wheels off the ground.
It will take your nuts off in 1 to 2 seconds.
There is not the same leverage as a manual lug wrench. The energy is very focused. You won’t have the same tendency to push/rock the car.

You will like it if you use one.
:D
 
Here is a photo of one of the wheels I bought on Costco online to to with the Pirelli Scottozero winter tires:

dZ1nnkr.jpg


They were only CDN $129 each. These looks SO much better than the EV pizza pans that came with the car.

They are Mercedes replica wheels, and are indistinguishable from the "real" thing. One of the wheels had lug nuts that were overtorqued, so Costco did't want to risk breaking it. I installed the last wheel on my own at home.

To GPS man's point, a torque wrench is a must so you can dial in the correct amount of torque. You could also use it to crack the nuts, then just use a socket bit for your drill to take them off.
 
gpsman said:
The battery impact wrench is very similar to a battery drill. Just a little bigger/stronger. ... You will like it if you use one. :D
OK, you guys convinced me and I went out and bought one. Man, it's heavy (and large) compared to my drill. But you're right - it's a joy to use. Thanks for the tip!
 
To GPS man's point, a torque wrench is a must so you can dial in the correct amount of torque. You could also use it to crack the nuts, .
Your tool, your decision, but it's not really best science to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. A worst-case situation where the fastener doesn't come free could damage the torque wrench; seen it happen. If one has a socket set, there's usually a breaker bar included. Use that to loosen the fasteners. Reserve the torque wrench for tightening fasteners to an exact torque.

Of course, this may not be a problem with the Bolt; its traction control is terrible. It lets my tires spin freely even on dry, warm pavement.
I'll not vote on good, fair or terrible traction control until I've driven our Bolt in worst case conditions, i.e. getting up my driveway with 6" or more of snow on it. It's steep enough that poor traction control will have the vehicle sliding backward.

However, thinking about it, with the simplified control of EV power, an EV should have the best possible traction control, compared with the difficulty of adjusting ICE output to match the need.

These are a 4 season tire that is rated for snow and has snow tire ratings comparable to a dedicated snow tire.
Your car, your opinion, your decision. My results differ. I participated in a Nokian demonstration of the differences between all-season and true winter tires; bottom line, the true winter tires showed a huge improvement in stopping, big improvement in starting and turning, major cost in extra wheels, faster tread wear. The major factor which differentiates all-season from true winter tires is tread wear. The best winter tires wear faster than most all-seasons. If a "4-season" tire has snow tire ratings comparable to a dedicated snow tire," then it's probably going to wear as quickly on pavement or it's not going to be as good as the best winter tires.

Another cost is for winter use, any tire worn below half the original tread depth is much less effective in snow and winter tires getting into the bottom half the tread are very little better than lesser tires. It's difficult for most of us to throw away that money/remaining tread. At present, we're putting up with a bit more road noise to use up the remaining winter tread over the summer, so as to start the winter with new winter tread. Some of us in the frozen north are just going to pay the extra costs and buy more tires more often.

The take-away from the Nokian seminar was they've surrendered to the US market and the majority unwillingness to buy winter tires. All their development is going into all-season. They will always offer the best winter tire money can buy, but have accepted most here just won't pay the money or the effort for maximum safety.

jack vines
 
PackardV8 said:
To GPS man's point, a torque wrench is a must so you can dial in the correct amount of torque. You could also use it to crack the nuts, .
Your tool, your decision, but it's not really best science to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. A worst-case situation where the fastener doesn't come free could damage the torque wrench; seen it happen. If one has a socket set, there's usually a breaker bar included. Use that to loosen the fasteners. Reserve the torque wrench for tightening fasteners to an exact torque.

Ya man, never use a torque wrench to crack nuts.

Does it work? sure.

Will it mess up your torque wrenches ability to ..... torque properly or at all? maybe.

Does it crack nuts better then the plethora of other cheaper tools a torque wrench owner probably has? Nope.
 
Best "cheater" I ever had was so simple :

Galvanized-pipe.gif


1/2" pipe extended the handle of my socket wrench by 2 feet, drastically multiplying torque applied. And there are other "uses" when left in your trunk for "emergencies" ...
 
SparkE said:
1/2" pipe extended the handle of my socket wrench by 2 feet, drastically multiplying torque applied. And there are other "uses" when left in your trunk for "emergencies" ...
Professor Plum, I presume?
 
SeanNelson said:
SparkE said:
1/2" pipe extended the handle of my socket wrench by 2 feet, drastically multiplying torque applied. And there are other "uses" when left in your trunk for "emergencies" ...
Professor Plum, I presume?

Looks more like gas pipe ..........
 
Nokian Hakka R2 winter tires are "Ultra Low Rolling Resistance" according to the sidewalls.
 
EldRick said:
Nokian Hakka R2 winter tires are "Ultra Low Rolling Resistance" according to the sidewalls.

The Hakka 8 studded are as well. I have them on my new Bolt, but I've only had the car a couple of days and only with those tires so I don't know about range impacts. They are great snow tires though.

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NeilBlanchard said:
Nokian Hakka R2's are the quietest winter tires I have had.

And they are possibly the lowest rolling resistance tires of any sort.

Thanks. The car has enough extra road noise compared to my Leaf that if I get a Bolt I'll want quiet tires, at least in Winter.
 
Hi all...I have a Bolt Premier with 215/50R17 tires on it...I am looking to put winter tires on it, and it has been suggested by several sources to put 205R4516 tires as this will supposedly improve the traction in snow. And, of course they are less expensive. My question is if I put the smaller tires on, will it have an effect on the computer's ability to predict amount of miles available in the current charge? Thanks.
 
oilerlord said:
To GPS man's point, a torque wrench is a must so you can dial in the correct amount of torque. You could also use it to crack the nuts, then just use a socket bit for your drill to take them off.

I wouldn’t recommend using a torque wrench to remove wheel lug nuts, a simple and cheap 1/2” breaker bar is a lot easier to use, and you won’t risk damaging the torque wrench, or throwing off the wrench’s calibration.

A 4-way lug wrench is also handy, the Bolt’s lugs are 19mm, or 3/4”, a size you’ll find as standard on any 4-way lug wrench. 19mm and 3/4 sockets are interchangeable, as the size difference is only .05 mm, about the thickness of a human hair.
 
rac5517 said:
Hi all...I have a Bolt Premier with 215/50R17 tires on it...I am looking to put winter tires on it, and it has been suggested by several sources to put 205R4516 tires as this will supposedly improve the traction in snow. And, of course they are less expensive. My question is if I put the smaller tires on, will it have an effect on the computer's ability to predict amount of miles available in the current charge? Thanks.

Hi,

Narrower tires do tend to perform better in the snow. According to Tire Rack, you could use 205/55-R16 - however they still recommend going with a tire / wheel combo that the manufacturer recommends (listed on the driver's side door jamb). Reputable tire shops will only install the "correct" tires/wheels for safety, and to protect themselves from liability. I wouldn't suggest going with the the 45 size with a 16" wheel. It may not only affect the range meter, but would probably affect your speedometer's reading too.
 
TimBolt said:
oilerlord said:
To GPS man's point, a torque wrench is a must so you can dial in the correct amount of torque. You could also use it to crack the nuts, then just use a socket bit for your drill to take them off.
I wouldn’t recommend using a torque wrench to remove wheel lug nuts, a simple and cheap 1/2” breaker bar is a lot easier to use, and you won’t risk damaging the torque wrench, or throwing off the wrench’s calibration.
Oilerlord put me on to using an impact driver to remove wheel nuts, and I gotta say it's a real game changer. Not something you can use in the field, of course, but for changing out the tires in your garage it sure is nice. And it's great for getting the nuts back on quickly to the point where you can cinch them up with your torque wrench.

Wish I'd bought one a long time ago.
 
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