Has anybody tried these 'portable' EVSEs ??

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tgreene said:
Patronus said:
As for travel usefulness, in addition to auto-switching input voltage, these plug adapters are available: https://emotorwerks.com/store-juice...ack-all-juicebox-adapters/category_pathway-39

? Really?! Why would you ever plug a 40A EVSE into a 30A circuit? At best it will trip the breaker.

What I did.
Simply set the current in Juicebox to 24Amps on a 30A circuit, and let the car handle the time of use charging.

Works just fine, first time plugging it in I tripped the breaker before I realized where the setting was.
 
EldRick said:
I cannot see any good reason for a non-portable EVSE.

I've been using the EVI EVSE with my Spark for eight months. It's hanging on my garage wall. It works fine, but it's only 16a.

I've purchased a 30a 120/240 portable K.H.O.N.S. EVSI for my on-order Bolt - $375. Same use-case - charge every day at home, and toss it in the trunk for road-trip emergencies caused by the miserable DCFC network in Oregon.

I couldn't get your link to work (it brought me to the generic welcome page for the site).

I assume you mean this one (not a link, you must copy and paste) :

16-30A Adjustable 120-240V Charger EVSE - $375.00
http://www.evseadapters.com/collections/ev-chargers-and-evses/products/16-30a-adjustable-120-240v-charger-evse
 
Actually, I've got a 16a EVI EVSE with adapters for sale on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/272535987909

(I'm upgrading from a Spark EV to a Bolt.)
 
EldRick said:
I cannot see any good reason for a non-portable EVSE.

I've been using the EVI EVSE with my Spark for eight months. It's hanging on my garage wall. It works fine, but it's only 16a.

I've purchased a 30a 120/240 portable K.H.O.N.S. EVSI for my on-order Bolt - $375. Same use-case - charge every day at home, and toss it in the trunk for road-trip emergencies caused by the miserable DCFC network in Oregon.
https://www.evseadapters.com/collections/ev-chargers-and-evses/products/16-30a-adjustable-120-240v-charger-evse

BTW, I designed a 3D-printable "holster" for mounting it on the wall. If anyone wants the files to print their own, send me a PM.


Have you used this yet? I can't tell if these are legit or not. I'm looking for a good portable evse as I am a renter that will move every few years.
 
For less money you can get your GM supplied EVSE modified to operate from 100-240V.

$199 from EVSE Upgrade plus another $25 for a 5-15 to L6-30 Adapter so you can continue to use it in standard 110V outlets.
Other adapters will let you plug into RV park 50A outlets though you'll still be limited to 12A 240V

I haven't done mine so can't vouch for the conversion quality
 
Have you used this yet?
Yes - I sold the 16a version, and have been using the 30a since March. It works fine. I bought and tested a 120v pigtail for it, although I don't expect to ever use it.

Because I have only 10ga wiring to the EVSE (not 8ga), and because slower charging is easier on the car and battery, I use it at 24a and usually Hilltop Reserve. At 24a, an overnight full top-up in 10-12 hours is easy. I did test the EVSE at 30a and had no problem, but the circuit breaker is not rated 30a, so I won't stress it.
 
Just got my 2017 Bolt and am having a 240V outlet installed as I received a 240v level 2 EVSE (AeroV) with it I have a newbie question How do you charge at 32amp when the only selection allowed by rhe charging panel in the car is 8-12 amps?
What am I missing here?
Thanks
 
Garyt said:
Just got my 2017 Bolt and am having a 240V outlet installed as I received a 240v level 2 EVSE (AeroV) with it I have a newbie question How do you charge at 32amp when the only selection allowed by rhe charging panel in the car is 8-12 amps?
What am I missing here?
Thanks

The 8/12 Amp setting in the car's settings is only applicable for 120V charging - it's a safety feature to not burn down (or trip circuit breakers) in older homes. With 240V charging, the car will pull all current available as announced by the EVSE (up to 30-32 Amps).
 
SparkE said:
Garyt said:
Just got my 2017 Bolt and am having a 240V outlet installed as I received a 240v level 2 EVSE (AeroV) with it I have a newbie question How do you charge at 32amp when the only selection allowed by rhe charging panel in the car is 8-12 amps?
What am I missing here?
Thanks

The 8/12 Amp setting in the car's settings is only applicable for 120V charging - it's a safety feature to not burn down (or trip circuit breakers) in older homes. With 240V charging, the car will pull all current available as announced by the EVSE (up to 30-32 Amps).
The 8/12 Amp setting is not really related to the age of the home.
It is there because many times an outlet in a garage will be on a circuit that has multiple outlets and the opportunity to plug in other devices (fridge, etc.).
An EVSE is considered a continuous load (more than 3 hours) and as such is only allowed to draw 80% of the rated circuit capacity. On a 15A circuit, this is the 12A figure. If anything else is plugged into the same circuit, you will be exceeding the maximum load. The breaker may or may not trip, and the wires/breaker could overheat.
Electric motors draw substantial extra current when starting up, so be aware that this could cause issues. For example a freezer may draw <1 A when running steady state, but when the compressor kicks in could draw 6 Amps.
Some garages will have their outlets on a 20 A circuit, and there is more "room" for other loads.
This is why the Bolt (and many other EV's) default to the "safe" 8A charge rate for 120 V. You need to take action to tell it that it's OK to pull more juice (and good to check before you do). If nothing else is on the same circuit, you can safely enable 12A 120V charging. If you're not sure, better to stick with the default 8A until you find out.
 
SparkE said:
The 8/12 Amp setting in the car's settings is only applicable for 120V charging - it's a safety feature to not burn down (or trip circuit breakers) in older homes. With 240V charging, the car will pull all current available as announced by the EVSE (up to 30-32 Amps).

With my B250e, I have 8, 10, 13, and "maximum" amp settings in the car's battery menu. These settings apply to both 120v and 240v charging. It isn't like that with the Bolt?

My portable Clipper Creek HCS-40p (that I highly recommend) will deliver up to 32 amps @ 240v (7.68 kW) but I seldom set the car at maximum amps unless I'm using public charging (or require a "fast" charge). The reason is that I like to set my charge rate at home to roughly coincide with the amount of electricity that's being generated by my solar.
 
DucRider said:
The 8/12 Amp setting is not really related to the age of the home.
It is there because many times an outlet in a garage will be on a circuit that has multiple outlets and the opportunity to plug in other devices (fridge, etc.).

Older homes (like mine, 1962) tend to have a longer string of sockets on the same breaker. Newer homes tend to have more circuits (breakers) so that fewer sockets are on the same circuit. For example, in my home, ONE THIRD of the 120V sockets are on one of three breakers. If I am using the microwave and the electric teapot and the fridge comes on, it trips the circuit and three rooms (kitchen, living room, dining room) go dark. It sucks when I am recording something. Newer home aren't set up like that (and the fridge socket is often on it's own circuit).

So yes, it's a safety feature for older homes (my garage is NOT on a separate breaker, for example - it is a shared circuit with another room in the house).
 
We have the Duosida one that the poster listed. This one:
Duosida Portable EVSE : https://www.amazon.com/Duosida-Portable ... le+charger

It works fine. But since it needs a special plug, it's not easily usable in any setting. But it is portable in the sense of it being useful for when we move to a different home.
 
I have the JuiceBox pro and a bag of adapters. I believe it's the most flexible and supported EVSE you can get, the one downside it is on the heavier side. But that's because it's a full metal case and a thick cord, they didn't skimp on quality. For control, just add it to your cell phone or car WIFI (car is ideal obviously), then you have loads of control. You can set the max amps, the total kWh to charge and so forth from an app. It supports everything from 8A@120V to 40A@220V. They also sell a really nice carrying case and adapters.

I have mine in the JuiceBox bag under the false floor, and a Camco electrical accessory storage bag which holds adapters and a 20' J1772 extension cord. Some people use regular extension cords, but the J1772 extension doubles as both a portable EVSE extension, and one for if I get ICE'd out.
 
While the Juicebox Pro is "portable" in that it doesn't have to be permanently mounted to the wall, the box is fairly large and the cord is extremely bulky and rigid compared to the Turbocord, Duosida, etc.
 
It bears repeating that the AV TurboCord is one handy, space saving unit, if you don't mind only 16A for 240v, with the optional 120v too!
 
ProfessorBolta said:
I have the JuiceBox pro and a bag of adapters. I believe it's the most flexible and supported EVSE you can get, the one downside it is on the heavier side. But that's because it's a full metal case and a thick cord, they didn't skimp on quality. For control, just add it to your cell phone or car WIFI (car is ideal obviously), then you have loads of control. You can set the max amps, the total kWh to charge and so forth from an app. It supports everything from 8A@120V to 40A@220V. They also sell a really nice carrying case and adapters.

I have mine in the JuiceBox bag under the false floor, and a Camco electrical accessory storage bag which holds adapters and a 20' J1772 extension cord. Some people use regular extension cords, but the J1772 extension doubles as both a portable EVSE extension, and one for if I get ICE'd out.

I know many EV drivers who swear by the JuiceBox. They love it's configurability. And the fact that they can put it in the trunk with a couple of adaptors and use it anywhere (like RV parks), at 32A (well, anywhere 32A are available). Also, some utility companies 'pay' you (discounts) if you configure it to let the utility tell the box when it's "best" to charge (which you can override at any time). The only problem was that it wan't UL listed (it may be by now).
 
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